Spellbound in Goa

If you look for Fonda on the map of Goa, you’re unlikely to find it.

This is because in Goa words are written in one way and pronounced in another. Fonda is actually Ponda. But this doesn’t mean that all words starting with a P are pronounced with an F. They aren’t. Palolem beach is still Palolem and Patnem beach Patnem.

But the M at the end of these words is silent. If you’re looking for Patnem, say Patnay. Palolem is Palolay, and Panjim Punjee. But Candolim remains Candolim.

The A or aah sound at the end of a word is also often suppressed. So if you stop to ask directions to Agonda beach, remember to say Agond. It makes you sound more like a local. Funnily, and also most aptly, Goa is pronounced with the aah! at the end. So you don’t ever say you’re going to Go, unless you’re really going to go.

And don’t even try to look for Kaypay on the map, as I was stupid enough to do. When finally I asked somebody where on earth I could find it, I was directed to Quepem.

They say most of these place names are a corruption of the original Indian term by the Portuguese.

The beach called Benaulim (the M is pronounced here!) in south Goa was originally Bana Halli, literally meaning a village created by an arrow. Halli, of course, is a Kannada word. According to legend the land of Bana Halli was reclaimed from the sea by Shiva when he shot an arrow into the ocean. The Portuguese didn't care too much to preserve the legend in the word.

But while the Portuguese mispronounced many words, very much as the English did in the rest of India, many Portuguese words themselves have entered the Konkani language in a way that would not be recognized by the former rulers today. The word susegad, which is often used to describe Goans, and which suggests a laid-back attitude, is a corruption of the Portuguese word soce gado, meaning exactly the same thing. Latin words were also once used frequently, and the educated Goan often strung together Konkani, Portuguese and Latin words all in one single sentence.

The Goans themselves were once called Goanese. But call a Goan a Goanese today, and you’re likely to meet with a very hostile reaction. Go and ease yourself, they’ll retort sharply.