Feasting, feni and firecrackers

The sound of firecrackers going off at any time is very common out here. In fact, whenever Goans are feeling uncommonly happy or have something to celebrate, they'll burst crackers to show their joy.

For the last couple of days, firecrackers have been going off to celebrate Shigmo, a grand festival spread out over several days.

Troupes of performers from the temple (as well as local villagers), dressed colourfully in exotic headgear and costumes, beating the dhol and playing other musical instruments, go slowly from house to house, dancing and singing in each courtyard. It begins in the morning, and continues through the day and late into the night. For the pleasure of seeing and hearing these folk dancers and singers – uncorrupted by any filmi influence - you must make a token offering of a little cash or at least a coconut.

Shigmo is a happy time. Apart from all the song and dance, it's a time for feasting. Every large household in turn provides a feast to which half the village is invited. I was lucky to be invited to one such lavish meal by the woman who provides me with fresh buffalo milk every morning. Fish was bought specially from the big market of Karwar, 35 km away in Karnataka, and four different kinds of fish were cooked. There was chicken curry and dry masala chicken. All cooked slowly on a wood fire in the backyard by the women of the house. The men got very merry with beer and feni.

More firecrackers explode in the evening. But this time it's not for reasons of joy, but only to frighten away the monkeys.